We have been back now for 4 weeks and many people have asked me how the holiday was, what it was like. I can't describe Fiji. It is beyond words...at least my experience of it is.
It's not just the scenery, the weather, the friendly people. Although I do realise that for most people who go to Fiji, this is exactly what they experience and exactly the memories they love to take home. I love all of this too but for me, Fiji is deeper than that.
I feel the weight of my culture and the responsibility that goes with that, but at the same time, I am cut off from it by a severe language barrier. I'd love to know more and understand more deeply, but it's so hard! I spent a long time sitting with the women, trying to decipher what they were saying, but it takes such a lot of concentration! Brain power that I don't always have... oh well! I have come back from this trip with more vocab than any other time so something must have worked.
These pictures don't do justice to the enormity of the feeling of being in Fulaga, but this is a tsmall representation of what it's like....
This house was built by my grandfather. My father and his 9 brothers and sisters were all born inside. It used to be thatched - roof and walls - but there have been too many hurricanes and tin is a cheap and easy replacement. When he built this, it was the biggest house in the village. He was 5 foot tall. Hmmm.
The view of the village from the top of the hill. The large building is the church and unreal colours are all actually real! And intense! The light is different in the middle of the pacific and the greens and blues are enough to burn your retina!
My cousin Niko (from England) and I were summoned by another mataqali (clan). They wanted Koroi's first born (Niko) and Veiqali's first born (me). We went into their house and the women rubbed coconut oil onto our hair and arms and they dressed us in sulus (floral material) and masi (bark beaten into a cloth and block printed with traditional designs). Niko was given a salusalu (the leaf and floral arrangement around his neck) and we were paraded through the village as the people sang. They presented us back to our mataqali and a small ceremony took place. We were able to keep our masi and sulus but I chose to leave mine in Suva with the family. They are amazing pieces of work and are used all the time and continually passed on in Fiji. I have so many here that just sit in drawers.
Niko was given masi too... and this tabua. This is a whale's tooth and is considered to be very sacred in Fijian culture. They were used by traders during the whaling days in the early 1800's. They are Fiji's antiques and it is a real honor to be presented with one. Again, we decided not to keep this. Tabua should really not leave Fiji...
This is the beach opposite the village. It's hard to believe that such a place exists...let alone that I have been there...let alone that I belong there!
And that is part of the enormity for me. I BELONG there...and here. And now Niko and Chris do as well. And I have a responsibility to pass on as much as I can...which just means I have to go there as much as possible. And I can totally handle that!
truly wonderful to read your post on Fiji.
ReplyDeleteJacob.